MAJ xXx's Top 10 Marching Tips Plus a bonus
1.
Powder your piggies. Your feet will sweat profusely during a road
march. Damp feet blister easily. The best way to keep your feet
comfortable and avoid excess blistering is to powder your feet before
you start. Use Gold Bond, talc, corn starch, or any brand of commercial
baby powder. Sprinkle powder on your bare feet, then put your socks on.
Put a light coat of powder on the outside of your socks, and then dust
the inside of your boots with a little more powder. Remember, lightly
coat everything with powder - don't dump the powder in big globs. If you
do, those big globs will become big wet globs when your feet sweat and
you'll be road marching with a boot full of biscuit dough.
[NOTE: Trim your toenails, too!]
2.
Wear only one pair of socks. Wearing more than one pair of socks will
not keep your feet warm nor will it keep them from blistering. All it
will do is make your feet sweat and lessen blood circulation meaning
your feet will freeze faster in the cold and blister more easily on road
marches. When road marching, wear one pair of clean, dry, cotton socks.
For what its worth, some soldiers recommend wearing a pair of women's
knee high hose under their cotton socks to reduce friction. I have never
tried this - one, because I am not secure enough in my manhood, and
two, because I could never find the right color hose to match my
rucksack.
3. Wear the right
boots. It is difficult to overstate the importance of wearing the right
boots when road marching. Generally speaking, this is a matter of
personal preference. There are countless types of boots on the market,
and no one particular boot is the preferred model. Whatever you choose,
make sure it fits correctly. Remember, your feet will swell as you road
march so boots that are too tight to start with will quickly become a
problem. Along those same lines, make sure your boots match the climate
you'll be operating in. Cold weather boots are a bad call for road
marching. They are usually heavy, and due to their special design, they
will roast your feet in short order.
Lots
of soldiers prefer the Army jungle boot for road marching. It is
relatively light weight (most of the boot is canvas), it keeps your foot
as cool as possible, and it is fairly easy to break in. The last point
is key. No matter what boots you chose make sure you break them in
before you start road marching in them. Breaking in boots is not rocket
science, you just have to wear them a lot. Often, soldiers will wear a
pair of boots around the house to help break them in. Another thing to
consider is getting your boots resoled. If you are going to be spending
time in the field or doing a lot of road marching, I highly recommend
having at least one pair of boots with ribbed soles. Finally, it is a
good idea to invest in a set of quality inserts for your road marching
boots. Dr. Scholls and others make a variety of styles. BTW--go ahead
and pay the extra few bucks to get a good set. If you buy cheap inserts,
they will get soggy with sweat and crinkle up while you are road
marching and your feet will become blister factories. You can shop for
boots, inserts, and soles at military clothing sales stores or at one of
the many on-line warehouse stores geared toward soldiers (US Cavalry,
Ranger Joes, HSGear).
4. Basic
Foot first-aid. Blisters are an inevitable part of road marching. There
is not much you can do about a blister during a road march, however when
you are done and ready to deal with the blister, I recommend the
following: wash the affected area with anti-bacterial soap, then take a
small scalpel or razor blade and make a small, linear incision at the
edge of the blister. Gently drain the fluid at the incision then pat the
area dry with a clean, dry cloth. Apply some type of anti-bacterial
ointment like Neosporin or Bacitracin to the incision then place a
band-aid over the deflated blister. Keep the area as clean and dry as
possible until the blister heals. If you have problem areas or hotspots
on your feet, apply moleskin (a commercial product found in the foot
care section of the store) before you road march. BTW - always keep some
extra moleskin in your ruck.
5.
Avoid snivel gear. Wearing any kind of cold weather gear (e.g. long
johns, polypro tops, sweaters, Gore-Tex jackets) is generally a bad idea
when road marching. Unless it’s extremely cold --like Korea or Fort
Drum cold--I recommend going with just a brown shirt under your BDU
blouse. You may be a bit uncomfortable initially, but once you start
moving with all that weight on your back you will warm up very quickly.
The last thing you want to do is have to stop, take off your ruck, your
LCE, and your BDU blouse so you can remove a piece of hot gear (which
will then have to be stowed). While you're doing that kabuki dance, the
rest of the unit will leave you eating their dust.
6.
Consider going “out there.” If you’re a fan of the TV show Seinfeld,
you’ve probably seen the episode where Kramer decides stop wearing
underwear. In describing his newfound freedom to Jerry he excitedly
exclaims: “I’m out there, Jerry, and I’m lovin’ every minute of it!" I
hesitate to delve into this topic for fear of offending people or
sounding juvenile, but the truth is infantrymen and other soldiers who
spend a lot of time in the woods rarely wear underwear either on road
marches or in the field. Underwear gets damp as you sweat, it gets wet
when it rains, and anything wet and clammy next to the skin, especially
in that area of the body, rapidly causes chafing. Personal preferences
vary, but you may want to consider going sans-skivvies when road
marching. Who knows, you might end up like Kramer, out there and lovin’
every minute of it. BTW -- if you decide to go this route, keep your
decision to yourself. There is such a thing as too much information,
even among friends.
7. Powder
your privates. As long as we’re talking about stuff like underwear, it’s
worthwhile to remind you to make sure you are dry and comfortable
downstairs. Prior to your road march put a light coat of powder on your
bottom and in your crotch area. Those places will chafe very quickly and
there is nothing worse than having a heavy ruck, five miles to go, and a
case of atomic monkey butt. If you do chafe, or you have a specific
hotspot down there that is very prone to chafing, I highly recommend a
product called Desitin (if you are a parent, you are probably already
familiar with it). You will find it in the baby care section of the
store. It is a white cream that comes in a tube and it is made for
babies with diaper rash, but it works great on adult chafing as well.
Put it on the affected area and you will be amazed at how quickly and
completely it works.
8.
Streamline your equipment. Take the time to get your gear squared away.
By that, I mean adjust your LCE so that it rides below your ruck. Secure
all of the loose straps, buckles, and webbing with rubber bands or 100
mph tape. The less stuff you have flapping and flopping the better. The
same goes for your ruck. Pack it so that you don’t have bulky or sharp
objects stabbing you in the back. Roll and secure straps, pockets, and
other things that drag, flap, or bounce. Talk to people who have done
this for a while and you’ll pick up lots of good tips on how to secure
and pad your gear to make it more comfortable. Also, these days there
are lots of commercial off the shelf products designed specifically for
making a soldier’s gear more comfortable. Military clothing sales stores
(especially those on posts with infantry divisions) will have lots of
this stuff. So will stores like US Cavalry and Ranger Joes. These and
other places all have websites, so finding accessories of this type
isn’t hard to do.
9. Empty your
pockets. This may sound overly simplistic, but you would be surprised at
how many people don’t do it. Remember, the key to comfortable road
marching is reducing friction. Anything that rubs against your body will
do so over and over again as you road march. Something as seemingly
insignificant as a set of keys, a wallet, a pen, or a can of Copenhagen
in your pocket will become a major friction point before you know it. If
you are rucking any distance at all, a small item will rub a big raw
spot in a hurry.
10. Drink
water. It is essential that you hydrate before, during, and after you
road march. Yes, I said during. The canteens in your LCE are not there
for show. Fill them with cool water and take periodic drinks while road
marching. It takes practice, but you will quickly get the hang of
drinking on the move. If you perspire a lot, you might consider
purchasing a Camelback or some other high speed hydration device. For
what its worth, I think the Camelback is one of the greatest inventions
of the modern world. It is has been a Godsend for soldiers, especially
those who spend a lot of time in the field. The night before a road
march, hydrate until your urine is clear. Be advised, said hydration
should be done with water, versus other beverages, especially the adult,
malted variety of beverage. Consuming mass quantities of alcohol,
especially a diuretic like beer, the night before a road march is a
recipe for disaster. Trust me, it is tough to regain your credibility as
an officer and a leader if you end up as a heat casualty quivering and
sniveling in the fetal position on the side of the road during a road
march. Finally, continue to hydrate after you road march. It will ease
soreness and muscle aches.
11.
(Bonus Tip) You don’t have to like it; you just have to do it. The
toughest 6 inches of any road march is directly between your ears. And
while there is nothing remotely enjoyable about strapping a heavy bag on
your back and walking several miles, remember, like anything
unpleasant, it won’t last forever. Commit yourself to staying mentally
tough and putting one foot in front of the other for as long as it takes
to get the job done.
Don’t
quit, and before you know it, you’ll be done. Then you can hang out,
tell war stories, and tell the younger soldiers how things used to be
back when it was hard.
CHESHIRECOUNTYMILITIA.ORG
The Defense Team Suggestions
Welcome to our Team Blog Suggestions...
Personally, I look at it this way. What does a person contribute to the group and will they be a net plus or minus. Not everyone can contribute xXx in ammo, BUT might be able to help more with food, or shelter or.... Sure have a minimum of a case, BUT try to keep caliber differences to a minimum makes supply and swapping as needed easier, for those that say non common rounds are a negative, I'd like to make 2 points, if I may... One, in most SHTF situations, the ammo you have is all that you may ever have... and Two, If you can scrounge ammo, you will find the guns that take it, as the guns will last WAY longer then the ammo...
PLEASE, comment away, Comments are more then welcome... I love other idea's, criticism is fine, but I will ask for facts to back up your disagreement with me.
Keeping caliber differences to a minimum, the more different calibers,the harder it is on the Quarter Master for re-loading, supply and parts.We try to keep members in 6 calibers, 4 main and 4 "back-up" 7.62x39mm and 7.62x25 AK/SKS and Tokarev, personally, mine are Yugo models, M-59/66A2 SKS and a M-57 Yugo Tokarev copy, which is a copy of the old Colt '03 with the best of the 1911. All can use cast slugs as needed, just tin the lead for the higher velocity rounds.
12GA shotgun, either a pump or auto-loader, tho a double is not a bad thing, for ease of use. A 22rf, a good AR-7 that is good for small game and the younger members can handle with ease. 7.62 NATO, .45 ACP, 5.56 NATO and 9mm, tho don't encourage these. It makes spare parts and reloading a lot easier. but having a few, common others can be useful or good for bartering. You might ask, Why the AK/SKS? It's simple really.. Well that to. It's a simple & reliable gun,simple to clean,simple to teach to use, and not fussy about bullets.Just a good solid simple design. They are a lot less expensive and if you stay away from most of the made in China ones, well made out of good hard milled steel, not stamped. They are priced affordable, between$200-$300, up to $400 for an UN-issued mint one. A small stock of spare parts that will last 2 lifetimes can be had for $35 to $50. And the options are pretty limitless on them. They can get beat up, stored dirty, gotten wet, sandy and dirty and still work, an M-16/AR-15 M-4 and the like can't quite say that, specially for the price. Why not xXx gun. Mini-30, great gun, harder to get parts for and pricey. The7.62 x 39mm is a just a good all around cartridge. Why not a 5.56 NATO or ,223? fast and light bullet, really lacks a bit in stopping power.7.62 NATO (3.08?) lots of power, a bit harder on the un-trained or lightly trained shooter, most firearms in 7.62 NATO are pricey.
Why the Tokarev? Design, price and power. The 7.62 x 25mm in a pistol is a powerhouse, very flat shooter, easy to work, reliable and simple. Why not a 45? Have to say, I love them, but they are expensive and kick like a mule, tho they will stop a mule, IF that mule is not wearing body armor. Hard to train someone that's smaller in it's use without them developing a flinch. 9mm? just nothing special, it's a .38 in an auto pistol and is really an underpowered round, have to "double tap" most targets if not triple...Just look at the Miami FBI shoot out and the North Hollywood Bank Robbery shootings.
Others we can say we like? PPSh-41 and PPS-43, again simple and reliable,the 41 is like a Thompson SMG, just lighter, the 43 more like a M-3 "grease gun". The 43 is mainly stamped, like many AK's in fact the Semi-Auto PPS-43 has AK internals...
Now I understand some of you are like WTF.. It's not the first time that former Soviet Armaments where wrongly considered less that adequate.
There are not many things that the Soviets do well. Running a Country wasn't one of them, BUT one thing that they did seem to excel at tho is small arms.
This has been proven over and over, again and again.
I understand the "opposition" to the 7.62x25 & 7.62x39 cartridge due to it's "ethnicity"
However the complaints of the 7.62x25 or 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R cartridge are usually emotionally based, NOT technically based.
They do exactly what they wanted it to do and they do it very well.
In order..."Main Rifle/Carbine"
1-SKS, prefer non Made in China...Best a Yugo M59/66-A1 or A2 ($3-400)
2- AK, again, prefer non Made in China... ($8-900)
3- Mosin-Nagant any of them are decent, a nice in-expensive bolt action rifle or carbine. ($150-300)
4-PPS-43 semi auto...For 300-400 Federal Reserve Fiat Notes OR can be built from part's kits...
5-PPS-41 semi auto...
Main Sidearms...
1-Yugoslavian M-57 Tokarev..
M-57
M-57 Field Test
M-57 How to Field Strip
M-57 Overall Overview
2-CZ-52
3-Russian, Polish, Romanian or other TT-33 anything not, Made in China...
All of these you can get kit's to convert them to 9mm with a vary simple barrel/bushing swap.
Knife/tool/hatchet, Marbles Firemans hatched/ax. Oh, and if you get one, get the carry case. it's a nice belt set-up and has a whey stone in it to keep it sharp... Cost, with sheath, around 25..
Think about this for ease of training and reloading.
Most people in the New England area are not unlike most young men the USSR's Army conscripted in the Soviet Union, simple folk from rural areas.
Most have never fired a gun or fired at a moving target, save a couple of deer, betting they missed more then they hit...
When shooting a moving target it is not necessary to teach "leading the target"
The 7.62x25 is so fast at pistol ranges that it becomes very easy to hit a moving target and at greater distances too.
The cartridge in inherently very accurate.
It is the only pistol cartridge that will penetrate armor, many bad things these days wear armor. I personally shot a brown bear at under 20 yards twice in the head, the 1st a FMJ he 2nd a JHP, Winchester Silvertip. The bear kept coming, the next set of rounds when to center of mass and it dropped, BUT imagine my shock that 2 .45ACP round to the head didn't stop it...
What will a x25mm penetrate you ask? www.theboxotruth.com="" docs="" bot29.htm"="">www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot29.htm >Click HERE and see for yourself...
These are just a few reasons why the Soviets picked it as their pistol cartridge.
The M-57, PPS-43, PPSh-41, T33 and the Czech CZ 52 (CZ-513 really) in the 7.62x25 caliber.
Re-loadable cartridge cases can be produced by reforming 5.56mm X 45 NATO.
RCBS sells a case trimming/reaming die to assist with the latter process..
Clothing?
I'd suggest Military woodland camo BDU's, they are in-expensive, since the military is phasing them out, and they blend into the New England countryside really well. Have a little extra? The Winter White or Urban (City) White camo mixes are great for winter.
Manuals, Here is a good start of military & survival manuals in zip and PDF formats.
www.stevespages.com/page7c.htm
www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/
www.truthistreason.net/16-survival-downloads-field-manuals-and-handbooks
Personally, I look at it this way. What does a person contribute to the group and will they be a net plus or minus. Not everyone can contribute xXx in ammo, BUT might be able to help more with food, or shelter or.... Sure have a minimum of a case, BUT try to keep caliber differences to a minimum makes supply and swapping as needed easier, for those that say non common rounds are a negative, I'd like to make 2 points, if I may... One, in most SHTF situations, the ammo you have is all that you may ever have... and Two, If you can scrounge ammo, you will find the guns that take it, as the guns will last WAY longer then the ammo...
PLEASE, comment away, Comments are more then welcome... I love other idea's, criticism is fine, but I will ask for facts to back up your disagreement with me.
Keeping caliber differences to a minimum, the more different calibers,the harder it is on the Quarter Master for re-loading, supply and parts.We try to keep members in 6 calibers, 4 main and 4 "back-up" 7.62x39mm and 7.62x25 AK/SKS and Tokarev, personally, mine are Yugo models, M-59/66A2 SKS and a M-57 Yugo Tokarev copy, which is a copy of the old Colt '03 with the best of the 1911. All can use cast slugs as needed, just tin the lead for the higher velocity rounds.
12GA shotgun, either a pump or auto-loader, tho a double is not a bad thing, for ease of use. A 22rf, a good AR-7 that is good for small game and the younger members can handle with ease. 7.62 NATO, .45 ACP, 5.56 NATO and 9mm, tho don't encourage these. It makes spare parts and reloading a lot easier. but having a few, common others can be useful or good for bartering. You might ask, Why the AK/SKS? It's simple really.. Well that to. It's a simple & reliable gun,simple to clean,simple to teach to use, and not fussy about bullets.Just a good solid simple design. They are a lot less expensive and if you stay away from most of the made in China ones, well made out of good hard milled steel, not stamped. They are priced affordable, between$200-$300, up to $400 for an UN-issued mint one. A small stock of spare parts that will last 2 lifetimes can be had for $35 to $50. And the options are pretty limitless on them. They can get beat up, stored dirty, gotten wet, sandy and dirty and still work, an M-16/AR-15 M-4 and the like can't quite say that, specially for the price. Why not xXx gun. Mini-30, great gun, harder to get parts for and pricey. The7.62 x 39mm is a just a good all around cartridge. Why not a 5.56 NATO or ,223? fast and light bullet, really lacks a bit in stopping power.7.62 NATO (3.08?) lots of power, a bit harder on the un-trained or lightly trained shooter, most firearms in 7.62 NATO are pricey.
Why the Tokarev? Design, price and power. The 7.62 x 25mm in a pistol is a powerhouse, very flat shooter, easy to work, reliable and simple. Why not a 45? Have to say, I love them, but they are expensive and kick like a mule, tho they will stop a mule, IF that mule is not wearing body armor. Hard to train someone that's smaller in it's use without them developing a flinch. 9mm? just nothing special, it's a .38 in an auto pistol and is really an underpowered round, have to "double tap" most targets if not triple...Just look at the Miami FBI shoot out and the North Hollywood Bank Robbery shootings.
Others we can say we like? PPSh-41 and PPS-43, again simple and reliable,the 41 is like a Thompson SMG, just lighter, the 43 more like a M-3 "grease gun". The 43 is mainly stamped, like many AK's in fact the Semi-Auto PPS-43 has AK internals...
Now I understand some of you are like WTF.. It's not the first time that former Soviet Armaments where wrongly considered less that adequate.
There are not many things that the Soviets do well. Running a Country wasn't one of them, BUT one thing that they did seem to excel at tho is small arms.
This has been proven over and over, again and again.
I understand the "opposition" to the 7.62x25 & 7.62x39 cartridge due to it's "ethnicity"
However the complaints of the 7.62x25 or 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R cartridge are usually emotionally based, NOT technically based.
They do exactly what they wanted it to do and they do it very well.
In order..."Main Rifle/Carbine"
1-SKS, prefer non Made in China...Best a Yugo M59/66-A1 or A2 ($3-400)
2- AK, again, prefer non Made in China... ($8-900)
3- Mosin-Nagant any of them are decent, a nice in-expensive bolt action rifle or carbine. ($150-300)
4-PPS-43 semi auto...For 300-400 Federal Reserve Fiat Notes OR can be built from part's kits...
5-PPS-41 semi auto...
Main Sidearms...
1-Yugoslavian M-57 Tokarev..
M-57
M-57 Field Test
M-57 How to Field Strip
M-57 Overall Overview
2-CZ-52
3-Russian, Polish, Romanian or other TT-33 anything not, Made in China...
All of these you can get kit's to convert them to 9mm with a vary simple barrel/bushing swap.
Knife/tool/hatchet, Marbles Firemans hatched/ax. Oh, and if you get one, get the carry case. it's a nice belt set-up and has a whey stone in it to keep it sharp... Cost, with sheath, around 25..
Think about this for ease of training and reloading.
Most people in the New England area are not unlike most young men the USSR's Army conscripted in the Soviet Union, simple folk from rural areas.
Most have never fired a gun or fired at a moving target, save a couple of deer, betting they missed more then they hit...
When shooting a moving target it is not necessary to teach "leading the target"
The 7.62x25 is so fast at pistol ranges that it becomes very easy to hit a moving target and at greater distances too.
The cartridge in inherently very accurate.
It is the only pistol cartridge that will penetrate armor, many bad things these days wear armor. I personally shot a brown bear at under 20 yards twice in the head, the 1st a FMJ he 2nd a JHP, Winchester Silvertip. The bear kept coming, the next set of rounds when to center of mass and it dropped, BUT imagine my shock that 2 .45ACP round to the head didn't stop it...
What will a x25mm penetrate you ask? www.theboxotruth.com="" docs="" bot29.htm"="">www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot29.htm >Click HERE and see for yourself...
These are just a few reasons why the Soviets picked it as their pistol cartridge.
The M-57, PPS-43, PPSh-41, T33 and the Czech CZ 52 (CZ-513 really) in the 7.62x25 caliber.
Re-loadable cartridge cases can be produced by reforming 5.56mm X 45 NATO.
RCBS sells a case trimming/reaming die to assist with the latter process..
Clothing?
I'd suggest Military woodland camo BDU's, they are in-expensive, since the military is phasing them out, and they blend into the New England countryside really well. Have a little extra? The Winter White or Urban (City) White camo mixes are great for winter.
Manuals, Here is a good start of military & survival manuals in zip and PDF formats.
www.stevespages.com/page7c.htm
www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/
www.truthistreason.net/16-survival-downloads-field-manuals-and-handbooks
100 items that disappeared first during Yugoslavia's Civil War.
This is a list of the 100 items that disappeared first during Yugoslavia's Civil War. Remember, this is a country that hosted the Olympic games just a few years earlier in 1984. In 1990 the whole country started down the short road to Civil War. That finally returned to some sense of normalcy by 1996, tho some spots still have UM PeaceKeepers thru 2011.
I started this list in 1996 when I put English ad's in local papers there looking for an English speaking/writing pen pal. By 1999 this is what I had... It has been tweaked a bit here and there, but the basics remain unchanged...
1. Generators (Good cost. Gas storage, risky. Noisy...target, maintenance etc.)
2. Water Filters/Purifiers
3. Portable Toilets
4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to dry, for home uses.
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots.
8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar
10. Rice - Beans - Wheat
11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,)
12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)
13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: PET PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking.
14. Mini Heater head (Propane) (Without this item, propane won't heat a room.)
15. Grain Grinder (Non-electric)
16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.
17. Survival Guide Books.
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc.
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene or old wood wired ones.)
22. Vitamins
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Small canister use is dangerous without this)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products.
25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)
28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)
29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels
31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)
32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches. {"Strike Anywhere" preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels)
49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams
53. Duct Tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry Detergent (liquid)
57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc
65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games, Cards, Dice
68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)
71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soy sauce, vinegar, bullion/gravy/soup base
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. "Survival-in-a-Can"
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattress's
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Goats/chickens (funny)
From a Sarajevo War Survivor:
Experiencing horrible things that can happen in a war - death of parents and friends, hunger and malnutrition, endless freezing cold, fear, sniper attacks.
1. Stockpiling helps. but you never no how long trouble will last, so locate near renewable food sources.
2. Living near a well with a manual pump is like being in Eden.
3. After awhile, even gold can lose its luster. But there is no luxury in war quite like toilet paper. Its surplus value is greater than gold's.
4. If you had to go without one utility, lose electricity - it's the easiest to do without (unless you're in a very nice climate with no need for heat.)
5. Canned foods are awesome, especially if their contents are tasty without heating. One of the best things to stockpile is canned gravy - it makes a lot of the dry unappetizing things you find to eat in war somewhat edible. Only needs enough heat to "warm", not to cook. It's cheap too, especially if you buy it in bulk.
6. Bring some books - escapist ones like romance or mysteries become more valuable as the war continues. Sure, it's great to have a lot of survival guides, but you'll figure most of that out on your own anyway - trust me, you'll have a lot of time on your hands.
7. The feeling that you're human can fade pretty fast. I can't tell you how many people I knew who would have traded a much needed meal for just a little bit of toothpaste, rouge, soap or cologne. Not much point in fighting if you have to lose your humanity. These things are morale-builders like nothing else. people trades 3-7 DAYS of food for perfume or deodorant... Think about that for a moment...
8. Slow burning candles and matches, matches, matches...
I started this list in 1996 when I put English ad's in local papers there looking for an English speaking/writing pen pal. By 1999 this is what I had... It has been tweaked a bit here and there, but the basics remain unchanged...
1. Generators (Good cost. Gas storage, risky. Noisy...target, maintenance etc.)
2. Water Filters/Purifiers
3. Portable Toilets
4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to dry, for home uses.
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots.
8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar
10. Rice - Beans - Wheat
11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,)
12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)
13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: PET PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking.
14. Mini Heater head (Propane) (Without this item, propane won't heat a room.)
15. Grain Grinder (Non-electric)
16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.
17. Survival Guide Books.
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc.
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene or old wood wired ones.)
22. Vitamins
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Small canister use is dangerous without this)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products.
25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)
28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)
29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels
31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)
32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches. {"Strike Anywhere" preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels)
49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams
53. Duct Tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry Detergent (liquid)
57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc
65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games, Cards, Dice
68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)
71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soy sauce, vinegar, bullion/gravy/soup base
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. "Survival-in-a-Can"
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattress's
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Goats/chickens (funny)
From a Sarajevo War Survivor:
Experiencing horrible things that can happen in a war - death of parents and friends, hunger and malnutrition, endless freezing cold, fear, sniper attacks.
1. Stockpiling helps. but you never no how long trouble will last, so locate near renewable food sources.
2. Living near a well with a manual pump is like being in Eden.
3. After awhile, even gold can lose its luster. But there is no luxury in war quite like toilet paper. Its surplus value is greater than gold's.
4. If you had to go without one utility, lose electricity - it's the easiest to do without (unless you're in a very nice climate with no need for heat.)
5. Canned foods are awesome, especially if their contents are tasty without heating. One of the best things to stockpile is canned gravy - it makes a lot of the dry unappetizing things you find to eat in war somewhat edible. Only needs enough heat to "warm", not to cook. It's cheap too, especially if you buy it in bulk.
6. Bring some books - escapist ones like romance or mysteries become more valuable as the war continues. Sure, it's great to have a lot of survival guides, but you'll figure most of that out on your own anyway - trust me, you'll have a lot of time on your hands.
7. The feeling that you're human can fade pretty fast. I can't tell you how many people I knew who would have traded a much needed meal for just a little bit of toothpaste, rouge, soap or cologne. Not much point in fighting if you have to lose your humanity. These things are morale-builders like nothing else. people trades 3-7 DAYS of food for perfume or deodorant... Think about that for a moment...
8. Slow burning candles and matches, matches, matches...
Militia Expenses, Can you afford not too?
Militia Expenses, Can you afford not too?
| Militia Expenses |
|
It doesn't have to cost a lot of money to prepare yourself for militia duty.
Many militia participants have fabricated their own gear, adapted other gear for militia use, or have found a good source for inexpensive gear...
The dedicated militiaman can have an inexpensive bolt-action rifle, low-cost surplus camouflage, and other gear adapted for militia use.
The best thing you can start with is a firm, dedicated commitment to defending yourself, your family, your community, and your country. There are good militia people who are very willing to help you find or assemble low-cost, functional
gear. Contact your local militia people, or attend a training session, and ask around. We want you to be geared up and ready...
Military Surplus bolt-action rifles, SKS or even an AK... All can be found for under 400 Federal Reserve Fiat Notes each... Heck, Good Mosin-Nagant bolt guns are under 100...
There is an excellent web site called, conveniently, http://www.surplusrifle.com/
It is worth reading for more information about these fine old weapons.
These old warhorses have been around for awhile, and many may have seen action. Some countries still use these rifles in limited roles. For example, in Israel, old 98k Mausers may still be used by Civilian Guard snipers & countersnipers
There is nothing wrong with buying a military surplus rifle .
Many militia people that we know have several, and some of us keep buying them.
They are inexpensive, durable, and if you happen across a decent one, and do a little bit of work they can be very accurate.
One of the first considerations that someone usually has when thinking about getting involved in militia training is the cost of a rifle. You can find some old surplus bolt-action rifles today for right around one-hundred dollars. Sometimes,
you can even find them for less. Currently, M44 carbines in 7.62X54R are very affordable, and you may still be able
to find an 8mm Turkish Mauser for under 100 FRFN's as well. You may have some luck with online gun auctions . Check the gun shows or talk to some of your friendly local militia people for ideas on where to look.
If cost is truly an issue, then an old military bolt-action may also help by being chambered for very inexpensive ammunition.
(WARNING! This is not always the case...for example, even though the Swiss K31 Schmidt-Rubin has been coming down in price, ammo for it is currently priced rather high.)
Commonly available cheap ammunition is 7.62X54R, 7.62x51 NATO and 8mm.
WARNING!!! A great deal of military surplus ammo is CORROSIVE , especially 8mm and 7.62X54. Please be certain to use water or a water/ammonia mixture to remove any salt from your weapon, then clean as normal. Ask some of your local militia people.
We want to stress that many of us have these rifles, and nobody, nobody, nobody in the militia will look down upon you for having one. If you want to try one of these, come on out to the next training session, and we will let you shoot one of ours.
Get what you can afford, and learn how to use it to the best of your ability. An accurate bolt-action shooter will always be a good asset for the militia.
Adapting Gear for Militia Purposes
The types and amount of gear that you can use for militia-related purposes is pretty vast. If you can carry something
with it, wear it, strap it, tape it, or tie it to some kind of gear or rig, then it can be made "militia-worthy".
Hunting gear, of course, probably does not require any type of adaptation. Blaze orange hunting gear is out of the
question. Most hunting gear is set up to carry guns, ammo, game, food, or other gear. These all can serve well as militia gear.
Most camping gear can be used as militia gear. Bear in mind that some camping gear is set toward comfort instead of tactical functionality. Camping gear may require additional camouflage, and may also require strengthening at certain stress points. Check your stitching and any type of fasteners, if these seem weak, add more stitching, buttons, snaps, or whatever you may need. Keep a roll of 100 mile an hour tape (or duct tape) to fix your gear, if necessary.
A lot of gear that is used by students today can be applied to militia use. Backpacks, belt-pouches, and water bottle carriers that today's students carry with them can become tomorrow's militia gear. You can avoid the cost of these probably
expensive school items by finding military surplus gear, but if you have them already (if, for example, you are a student), then use them for militia duty. Mil-Sup gear can be had rather in-expensively, just ask, we'll help...
If you are handy with a (heavy duty) needle and (heavy duty) thread, then you can fabricate your own militia gear out of just about anything. Any type of heavy duty cloth, such as denim, can be dyed, folded, and stitched to make straps, suspenders, or other types of harnesses. (We admit that only a few militia people have done such a thing, as the regular surplus gear is very, very inexpensive, but we have seen this type of thing done.)
We have seen militia persons use fishing tackle boxes to carry their medical gear in, and small backpacks would work well for this, also.
A one-liter pop bottle carried with a strap has served as a canteen.
The type of gear you can adapt for militia use is really only limited by your imagination. It would be a good idea to observe militia people at training and get some thoughts on how to make or adapt your gear. Again, in most cases, military surplus gear is so inexpensive that it is not necessary to make or adapt your own, but it is nice to be able to, should the need arise.
Cheap Mail Order Suppliers
There are other suppliers out there, but these are the three that I always order stuff from.
Cheaper Than Dirt 2524 NE Loop 820 Fort Worth, TX 76106-1809
Major Surplus and Survival 435 W. Alondra, Gardena, CA, 90248
The Sportsman's Guide 411 Farwell Avenue, So. St. Paul, MN 55075-0239
is a great online place that tends to gave good deals on gear.
Looking for Gear?
In addition to the excellent suppliers above, there are other places you can look for low-cost militia gear.
Gun Shows and military surplus stores are good places to look. The camping/hunting section of sporting good stores and even department stores can all be good places to look for gear.
But you can also find good usable militia gear at garage/yard sales, thrift stores, such as those operated by The
Salvation Army , and you can even find some decent stuff at your local "dollar store".
Thrift stores can be good sources for used sleeping bags, blankets (to make your own sleeping bag?), clothing that may be useful (some of it may require being dyed), and used pots and pans that you wouldn't mind taking to the field. In one recent trip, a militia member found several good insulated bottles (thermos type and other), replacement globes for an oil lamp, "beater" cookware, and several sleeping bags. All of these were very cheap. Even if you are not interested in using any of this as your primary gear, it may serve well as "car gear" for your trunk, back-up gear, or gear to keep on hand for your
neighbors/fellow militia people/Uncle Frank. Some of us are always upgrading, so extra gear can be borrowed, bartered and haggled for if not outright have it...
The dollar store may be a good place to find inexpensive medical gear, and possibly other useful stuff. In one recent excursion, we found dollar tarps (for covering your gear or making a field-expedient shelter), rope, foot powder, band-aids, and various useful medication, like triple antibiotic ointment.
Also, we would be remiss in our duties if we failed to mention that most experienced militia people have accrued a vast soiree of gear, some of which they may be willing to part with cheaply, or in exchange for something else.
Low Budget Field Rations
MRE's can be expensive, and certain prepared, dehydrated camping food can cost even more. You don't really need either. The quickest and least costly of field rations might be Ramen Noodles. They are very cheap in bulk...
This is 30 days food, and it's good, for less then 100 FRFN's It can be broken up to be carried easily... www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11649759
You can dehydrate your own food using just your oven on a very low setting. This will be much cheaper than buying dehydrated food, you can make all you want, you don't need an expensive dehydrator, and as a bonus, your house will smell nice.
You can also fall back on a tried-and-true, time tested field ration staple:
Basic Hardtack
2 c Flour
1/2 tb Salt (optional)
1/2 tb Sugar (optional)
1/2 c Water
Mix flour, salt (optional), sugar (optional), and water. Using hands or rolling pin,
flatten dough on floured cloth until 1/4-inch thick. Score with a knife if
desired. Bake on cookie sheet in 350-degree oven for 30 minutes. Break into
pieces as needed. You may have to soak this in water or other liquid to be able
to chew it. Some have even soaked hardtack in coffee, or fried it in some kind
of grease. But, it will last a long time, and can keep you going if necessary.
You can also assemble your own MRE-type of meal out of regular grocery store components, as seen below. This meal contains a small can of stew, a fruit cup, a juice box, raisins, crackers, and other assorted stuff like napkins and plastic ware. These cost less than MREs to assemble, especially when components are purchased in bulk. Again, many of us are here to help...
Also,as mentioned above, CostCo Chef's Banquet ARK 1 Month Food Storage Supply, 330 Servings, Up to 15 Year Shelf Life, under 100 FRFN's delivered to your door... Just add water, great for light weight and long term...
www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?prodid=11649759
Low Budget Sleeping Bags
The first thing to do here would be to check at your local Salvation Army or other thrift store. One militia member found a five dollar sleeping bag at one of these stores that he carried and used for a couple of years. If there are no sleeping bags there, then pick up whatever blankets that you can find, with wool being the best option. (Sometimes, the mail order
suppliers listed elsewhere on this page have military surplus wool blankets for a very reasonable price. They also sometimes have fairly inexpensive bags, too.) A couple of good heavy blankets should do the trick, get a third if the weather
is really cold. You can even fold your blankets over and stitch them partially up the open side.
Now, pick up a couple of dollar store tarps, and tie these together for use as the shell of your sleeping bag. Be careful, however, to not have a completely airtight seal between your tarps, because you will not want to trap any of your body's moisture. If you cannot find a cheap sleeping pad, then an extra blanket may help as cushioning, or if it is available, you
can always use straw or grass. (Don't knock it, this works.)
If it would be less costly, consider surplus cold weather garments to keep you warm, and then keep your bag light. You may be able to find real bargains on surplus parkas, and a good one of these will reduce your need for a heavier bag.
Home Made Camouflage
Used, military surplus clothing is among the cheapest you can find, especially if you are size medium or smaller. However, if you are not on the smallish side, or if your money is really too tight, you can easily make your own camo with some cheap dye and a magic marker or two.
Just twist and dip some parts of some durable clothing into a bucket with dye in it, and alternate green, black, or brown. Add a few strokes or blotches with magic marker, and you will have passable camo clothing. This same can be applied to your gear, blankets, and whatever.
Try to use tough, loose-fitting clothes, and hopefully these will have a good amount of pockets.
Major xXx Marching Tips
Major xXx's Ruck Marching Tips
Major xXx's Ruck Marching Tips
Welcome to The Cheshire County Militia
Welcome to The Cheshire County Militia
We are a group of people dedicated to the preservation of the American way and preserving our history. We feel that if we educate people and prepare them for whatever may happen. Being prepared is never a bad thing and knowing US history, traditions, the Constitution and laws can only benefit all of us...
Our core membership is mostly comprised of people that are prepared. We have banded together for mutual support, just like the days of old, helping thy neighbor. We help organize training events as well as charity donations for the community...
A good site for prep info and a wonderful forum for chat and meeting others. www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/ Really, it can't be beat...
If you want to know more, feel free to join us on our discussion's and comments. This is just starting out, but we hope it will grow. Registration is not needed. Comments are encouraged within certain parameters, see below.
Thanks and good luck. We're all going to need it!
Please check back soon for new entries. We're a new group in South-Western NH and are looking to meet local or semi local, like minded friendly people. I got the thought's for this after President Obama's "Corpse" man comment in Feb 2010 when he confused a heroic US Navy corpsman with undead foot soldier... So I figure, we must need to be ready for anything. We feel that if we are prepared to survive a zombie CorpseMan outbreak or invasion, we would be prepared for anything else that may come our way. Yes, it sounds a bit silly, I agree, BUT even the CDC says it's good. Besides any natural disaster, civil unrest, war or pandemic infection...nothing can come close to the horror and devastation of a zombie outbreak, so our members will be prepared to survive anything.
Here in NH and they have, what would seem to be rather illegal and UN-constitutional state laws regarding Militia.
They seem to be in direct contrast to the US & State Constitution and the US 2nd Amendment, BUT more on this state law later...
On here and in out group, racism will not be tolerated. Political UN-correctness WILL be tolerated and encouraged. Disagree with our thoughts? Please back up your disagreements. Please be respectful and no name calling crap.
This site nor it's owners & members do not promote or tolerate Offensive Actions or Violence...
Liberty is not a cruise ship full of pampered passengers, Liberty is a Man of War, and we are all crew ready to DEFEND it...
We hope to get a group together in the spirit of the original 1700's militia.
We are a private organization dependent on our members. Think of us a re re-enactment group, family friendly and helpful to each other and the community...
We wish to live by Article 2A of the NH state constitution that says, "All persons have the right to keep and bear arms in defense of themselves, their families,their property and the state." And Article 24 of the NH state constitution says "A well regulated militia is the proper, natural, and sure defense,of a state." We should depend on each other and not the Government for help and our well being. The US Constitution and even the NH State Constitution seem to be counter to New Hampshire, Rev. Stat. Ann. § 111:15...
Any group under the control of the Governor or Government is not a Militia, by definition. I stand by the believe that while a Militia might serve under the governor, if it is mandatory and controlled by the Government, it is an army or State Guard, not a Militia...
The Citizen Militia IS: A deterrent, defensive force. A first response mechanism, to assist in times of disaster (i.e. hurricane, floods, etc). A chain of command (within each group) which we can use to offer leadership and assistance to our fellow citizens, community and families. To defend against all enemies foreign and domestic.
The Citizen Militia is NOT: An offensive force. A racist or subversive group. A private army subject to the dictates of any individual, corporation, or other private group. An organization formed for sustained combat operations (a ‘standing army’). To be used as a forum or launching point to any particular or religious agenda. We would like to clearly state that we are committed to a posture of defense, and do not advocate the unlawful overthrow, targeting of or overthrow of our form of government by any person(s. This site is a place for the independent militia Groups to come together to share training techniques, and teach the correct, unvarnished history of our Republic our State, the formation or our Constitution and Bill of Rights; teach & promote participatory citizenship.
We support HCR-6, (http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/legislation/2009/HCR0006.html) Please, look it up and let your rep's know how you feel.
"Today, we need a nation of Minutemen, citizens who are not only prepared to take arms, but citizens who regard the preservation of freedom as the basic purpose of their daily life and who are willing to consciously work and sacrifice for that freedom." --John F. Kennedy
This site is dedicated to all of those Americans who have made the "Ultimate Sacrifice" in the defense of their Constitution. From the Patriots of Lexington Green to the present day anonymous militiaman who readies each day in quiet fury.
And to all the police, firefighters and medical personnel that every day put their own life on the line to save ours.
When you see a Veteran stop and shake his/her hand and say "THANK YOU"
If your reading this, Thank a teacher, if your reading this in English, Thank a Vet.
"What is war about, pain death and destruction. The Question one might ask is
what type hardships did this rifle see and undergo...Never glorify war,
understand what men are forced to do for their country and their
survival. Yours is not to approve, yours is to teach living history to others.
Every sword has two edges , every story two sides, you hear what your told
to hear, your duty is to hear the truth weather you approve or not of
what you find."
Very good reading, www.nh.gov/constitution/constitution.html
[Art.] 2-a. [The Bearing of Arms.] All persons have the right to keep and bear arms in defense of themselves, their families, their property and the state.
Adopted December 1, 1982
[Art.] 7. [State Sovereignty.] The people of this state have the sole and exclusive right of governing themselves as a free, sovereign, and independent state; and do, and forever hereafter shall, exercise and enjoy every power, jurisdiction, and right,pertaining thereto, which is not, or may not hereafter be, by them expressly delegated to the United States of America in congress assembled.
Adopted June 2, 1784
[Art.] 10. [Right of Revolution.] Government being instituted for the common benefit, protection, and security, of the whole community, and not for the private interest or emolument of anyone man, family, or class of men; therefore, whenever the ends of government are perverted, and public liberty manifestly endangered, and all other means of redress are ineffectual, the people may, and of right ought to reform the old, or establish a new government. The doctrine of nonresistance against arbitrary power, and oppression, is absurd,slavish, and destructive of the good and happiness of mankind.Adopted June 2, 1784
[Art.] 22. [Free Speech; Liberty of the Press.] Free speech and liberty of the press are essential to the security of freedom in a state: They ought, therefore, to be inviolably preserved.
Adopted June 2, 1784, Amended 1968 to include free speech.
[Art.] 24. [Militia.] A well regulated militia is the proper, natural, and sure defense, of a state.
Adopted June 2, 1784
[Art.] 32. [Rights of Assembly, Instruction, and Petition.]The people have a right, in an orderly and peaceable manner, to assemble and consult upon the common good, give instructions to their representatives, and to request of the legislative body, by way of petition or remonstrance, redress of the wrongs done them, and of the grievances they suffer.
Adopted June 2, 1784
NOW, no state law can trump these.. that require an amendment to the US Constitution or the State one..
So, is New Hampshire, Rev. Stat. Ann. § 111:15 Constitutional under BOTH the US Constitution AND the State of New Hampshire's? That is the question that lawyers and courts may have to decide... sadly, gone are the days when the common people could understand the laws we have to live by. Now you almost HAVE to be a "Philadelphia Lawyer" to understand them...
RE: 111:15 Armed Civilian Groups. – No organization, society, club, post, order, league or other combination of persons, or civil group, or any members thereof, are authorized to assume any semblance of military organization or character by bearing or possessing rifles, pistols, sabres, clubs, or military weapons of any kind, or wearing a military uniform of any kind. Any person violating any of the provisions of this section or taking part in such military organization shall be guilty of a misdemeanor if a natural person, or guilty of a felony if any other person; and any rifles, pistols, sabres, clubs or other military weapons used in violation hereof shall be forfeited. This section shall not apply to regularly constituted military units under state or federal laws; and nothing in this section shall be construed as forbidding the possession and use of rifles for color guards or firing squad purposes, or the wearing of uniforms of a military character, by an organization composed wholly of veteran soldiers who participated in any war of the United States, or by any other recognized fraternal group of long-standing in the community which uses rifles or sabres merely as a part of its ritualistic exercises and which is not specifically disapproved by the President of the United States, the Department of Defense, or the governor.
Source. 1941, 46:15. RL 144:15. RSA 111:15. 1973, 528:42. 1981, 327:7, eff. Aug. 16, 1981
Militia
...of the Several States of the Union and of the United States of America.
We believe in the great liberalism of the Founding Fathers that all men are created equal with certain Creator endowed unalienable Rights recognized and protected by the Constitution for the United States of America. We oppose all forms of tyranny. We believe in the Right to keep and bear arms in defense of the individual, the state,and the Constitution for the united States of America against all enemies foreign and domestic.
''I, (your name), do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will support and defend the Constitution for the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; that I take this obligation freely, without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion; and that I will well and faithfully discharge the duties of the office on which I am about to enter. So help me God.''
"A well regulated Militia being necessary to the Security of a Free State the Right of the People to keep and bear Arms shall not be infringed." Article 2, Bill of Rights
" Whenever governments mean to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise an army upon their ruins." - Rep. Elbridge Gerry of Massachusetts
A bit about me. I'm Richard, the fonder of this little site.
I served in the USAF for 6+years as a Weapon Systems Specialist.
17+ years teaching & training small unit tactics, Head of an aggressor team and squad.
2+ years as an Army MP and worked in the armory as well.
Small Arms in Mountainous Areas
Small Arms in Mountainous Areas
The Mountain Echo – Infantry Weapons in Mountainous Areas
Andrey Mashukov, Russian edition of Soldier of Fortune, 1997
Through the last two decades, the armed forces of the USSR, and later of the Russian Federation, had time and time again engaged in conflicts in mountainous territory. Mountain warfare has been detailed in the Combat Manual, and there is no need to reinvent the bicycle. As for the weapons – the debate had dragged on for all these yets.
After the Chechen Campaign, one could often hear mutual accusations being lobbed by MoD and MoI troops. “The MoI had better weapons…” the mechanized infantry complains. “That’s why we were thrown into head-on assaults instead of you!” the MoI Special Operatives retort. Everybody accuses someone else. Infantry commanders sigh sadly as they look at the MoI Special Forces’ VSS, SVD-U, and 9A-91 Assault Rifles: “Oh but if we only had these guns…” And nothing would have happened. The same young draftee would come back from his shift, throw his dirty gun into the corner of his tent, and when combat broke out, fire it blindly in long bursts.
Special weapons are only effective in proffesional hands. This isn’t news. Arming draftees with the newest special purpose weapons is not even economically efficient – such weapons are usually several orders of magnitude more expensive than the traditional Kalashnikov rifles. Those who love arguments about whose gun is ‘cooler’ I’d like to remind of the famous proverb of the bad dancer.
Weapon of Choice – AKM
Despite all debates the different small arms, the front-line soldier will use his own experience to pick his favorite weapon. At war, arms are chosen using a thought process simpler than splitting firewoord: will it penetrate? is it reliable? Is there ammunition in stock or will I have to trade for it in a neighboring unit?
Since the beginning of the war in Karabakh, the local self-defense forces are armed with AK-74 rifles – probably since the main supplies come from Russian arsenals. But their troops prefer the AKM and would not trade it even for a couple of AK74 rifles. There’s a reason the Armenians established mass-production of the 7.62×39 round – in wooded mountain slopes, the AKM performs far better.
Of the variety of available ammunition, API rounds were the most popular. There was a time that the NKR command rewarded every soldier who destroyed an enemy tank or IFV with a can of API 7.62x39mm ammunition, which was much-beloved in Karabakh and could be traded for anything.
The Mujahedin also used AK rifles made around the world. Soviet, Chinese, and Iranian AKMs were prevalent, but it was the Soviet gun that was most popular. When I asked why, all replied: “The shuravi kalakov (literally, “russian assault rifle”. This was the nickname the Mujahedin had for the Soviet AKM) will not fail in battle.” The Soviet AKM could be used with all kinds of 7.62x39mm ammo, whereas its Iranian and Chinese copies could only be used, respectively, with Iranian and Chinese ammunition, otherwise the guns would jam or get stuck in the chamber.
The Afghani Mujaheddin also noted that the “kalakov”, unlike its foreign brothers, heats up less. The plastic foregrips of the Rumanian AKS-47 and late-generation Chinese AKM’s heat up so much that it is impossible to hold the rifle after rapidly firing off 3-4 magazines.
A Machinegun is Always A Machinegun
In Chechnya, all Russian units had machineguns – it’d be strange if it were different. On the other hand, though the manual instructs that assistant machinegunners be present in wartime, these were often absent in the unit, and had to be trained during actual combat. After suffering in the first few battles, taking losses, and uttering many a curse, many units began to deploy with full and augmented machinegun crews – taking more PKs than they were supposed to be issued. Practically every soldier trained on the PK.
The weapon was equally popular with the enemy. Dudaev’s mobile teams, assigned to protect snipers, had not only a grenadier but also a PK gunner. The PK was beloved by the Chechens, who nicknamed it “handsome”. Chechnya’s many arms markets paid up to 10 thousand dollars for the PK, whereas an SVD equipped with a scope fetched $3500 at best, a TT – a thousand dollars, and an AKM – no more than 300-400.
the light and comfortable PK competed in firepower with the PKT and KPVT turret guns that were mounted on BTRs. The vehicles became unwieldy and vulnerable in mountains. The Chechen clay soil turned into dough after the heavy rains, and the vehicles literally began to crawl on their bellies, their firepower and mobility completely negated.
During the assault on Novogroznensky in February 1996, a BTR-80 belonging to the first Special Operations Team of the “Vityaz” unit, became stuck in a road. Stuck 50 meters away from a line of enemy fortifications, the BTR survived only by miracle. On the other hand, light mobile groups unburdened with AFV, armed among other things with PKs, can find hundreds of mountain paths. No operation or ambush in the mountains went off without the light, mobile PK.
One would also wish to point the NSV heavy machinegun, underestimated by Russian command. Its brother, the DShK, is still used in the montains of Afghanistan and Karabakh. For a brief, running battle, the NSV is too heavy, but for the mountains it is irreplaceable. Its firepower allows one to disassemble a mountainside emplacement in brief seconds or to destroy a firing point in a brick house with the bricks in it. Any wound from this gun doesn’t allow a man to ever return to service. An NSV or DShK round can easil rip off an arm or a leg. I remember only one man who survived a DShK and he got lucky – the bullet was out of speed, pierced his jaw and became stuck in his neck.
In the Mountains, They Still Pray to The God of War
Light mortars – up to 60mm – were also taken up the mountains. The plates were not taken – one would simply use the light shovel. “Put it under the pipe, and toss in the mine. Three shots – and you move to a new position”, a Karabakh veteran once told me.
Light mountain artillery is difficult to overrate. Apart from direct-fire small arms, in the mountains had you must have indirect-fire weaponry. In Chechnya we had often met enemy fighters who had a special tactics for positional warfare in mountains. From the side of the opposite mountain they would fire weapons from prepared, fortified positions, immune to rifle and machinegun fire. We would call for artillery support, and if the artillerymen were smart and skilled, very soon accurate fire would tear apart fortifications, logs, and sometimes even a rebel or two. If the gunners were less skilled – the shots would rain down on us. And the Chechen fighters would retreat to the opposing, hidden slope at the first bursts, only to return to their positions after the artillery barrage was over. We called for air support – but the pilots flew as high as they could to avoid being shot down over the mountains. A few rocket salvos at the green hills from maximum distance, and the aircraft leave, only making a lot of noise..
The most accurate way for getting rid of the enemy was using 82mm and 120mm mortars. Even inaccurate, harassing fire was often enough to persuade the enemy to abandon his posts.
Anybody who has ever been under mortar fire will agree that it causes rather unpleasant emotions. If you can hide from an artillery shell or Grad salvo by digging into the ground in the mountains, with a vertically-striking mortar it is more difficult. Only a cover of at least three earth-filled shell crates will shield you from an 82mm.
The 60mm mortar is very useful. It can be fired without bipods or baseplades, which makes its delivery and deployment far easier and faster, and increases the firepower of mobile groups.
The Afghani mujahedin often use 12-barreled 128mm MLRS launchers of Chinese manufacture, capable of firing to a range of 10 kilometers. They are highly mobile and effective. Mounted on a UAZ-469 or GAZ-66, they can be easily transported across rough terrain and deployed. In mountainous terrain inaccessible by car, the launcher can be disassembled and brought to the position in pieces. The rockets can be launched using a pocket battery and the work of a smart artilleryman. In Panjsher, Ahmad Shah Massud had every single one of his mujaheddin trained to use this type of MLRS.
Similar 12-barreled launchers, called “Plaman”, were used in the mountains by both sides of the Bosnian conflict.
Meeting Engagements
Mountain combat often becomes a rapid, short-range engagement at distances up to 100 meters. The risk to strike one’s own men obviates the use of even light mountain artillery, and the full burden of suppressing enemy position falls on small arms, hand-grenades and grenade launchers.
Combat in mountainous, forested terrain during the Chechen campaign highlighted numerous aspects of the use of these latter weapons. Soldiers and officers who participated in the First Bamut Offensive in spring 1995, they had experienced using grenade launchers aimed not directly at the enemy – which the dense forest cover prevented – but aiming at the top of the trees above him. The grenades detonated at the treetops, thus increasing the area of effect.
Great amounts of criticism were aimed at the fact that, unlike foreign equivalents, the RPG-7 lacks an anti-personnel munition. The RGN hand-grenades also proved unreliable in mountainous forests. In such terrain, a contact-fuzed hand-grenade will not reach the enemy, but bump into a tree trunk or thick branch and detonate, showering one’s own men with shrapnel.
In Transdnistria and Karabakh, in 1992, a simple device was introduced that enabled using hand-grenades like Western rifle grenades. An F-1 grenade, fired from behind cover to a range of up to 80 meters, is far more effective than a VOG, which makes it extremely relevant in close-range combat.
A Sniper In the Mountains Means Frayed Nerves
Never in my time in Chechnya did I hear a single bad word directed at the SVD. A good marksman using it could effortlessly take down an enemy on an opposing mountainslope up to 700 meters away. At such distance one often doesn’t even need to use a suppressor – the distance and mountain echo conceal the direction of the shot and protect the shooter. The very presence of an enemy sniper in the mountains may make soldiers uncertain and psychologically uncomfortable.
In 1992, our unit traveled by bust from Yerevan to Karabakh. We had to travel through the Lachi Corridor. At the final checkpoint, upon entering Karabakh territory, we were warned: “Be careful – a sniper is at work.”. How did he manage to penetrate territory under complete Armenian control remains uncertain – but the fact remained so, and nobody could know when or where the shot would ring first. A few kilometers later the driver of an Ural we met confirmed the existence of the sniper, telling us how half an hour before that he was shot at by an unseen shooter. As proof, he showed us a bullet hole in his cabin roof.
It would not be possible to check the forested slopes, covered by thorny bushes, on such a great area and in later twilight. Instead, we turned off the lights, prayed, and set off. My neighbor Tatul, who previously was cheerful, became sullen, and so did the other guys. We traveled silently now, hiding the lights in our firsts. The tall Tatul fell silent and poked his PK out of an open window, hunching over the machinegun. Several times he offered us to trade places with him, pretending he was afraid to catch a cold by the open window. We realized he intended to move into the cabin and joked: “Don’t worry, Tatul! Your head is thick, no bullet can pierce it!”
Several hours later, in complete darkness, nearly by touch, we reached our destination along a mountain road covered with shell craters – and only there did we allow ourselves to catch a breath..
Russian soldier takes a break in Second Chechen War. Note modern rifle grenades on rifles in background.
The Russian F-1 hand grenade was first introduced in World War II and has been used in combat since all over the world. It is interesting that the Russians resorted to issuing adaptors of the US type (seen below) to project F-1s at greater distance.
In Transdnistria and Karabakh, in 1992, a simple device was introduced that enabled using hand-grenades like Western rifle grenades. An F-1 grenade, fired from behind cover to a range of up to 80 meters, is far more effective than a VOG, which makes it extremely relevant in close-range combat.
The Russian F-1 hand grenade was first introduced in World War II and has been used in combat since all over the world. It is interesting that the Russians resorted to issuing adaptors of the US type (seen below) to project F-1s at greater distance.
